Hello there! Today I’m sharing some pictures and process details for my “Celtic Knot Sweater.” I referred to the set-in-sleeve instructions in Ann Budd’s “Knitter’s Handy Guide to Top-Down Sweaters”. I attempted a 42 inch bust size on my actual 39 inch measurement. I didn’t measure the final garment, but as you can see below, it fits well!
The first task was to design the knot pattern for the chest. I knew I wanted a sort of “celtic knot” design, and I wanted it to be repeating. I needed to get this down before I could start on the sweater, because you need the number of stitches in a repeat to figure out how to adjust the stitch counts in the pattern! I found a great chart on pinterest, but it was clearly an image or scan of an old book. So I recreated it using the Stitchart app on my tablet. One cool thing this program can do is knit a digital sample of your colorwork pattern, which can help identify any issues early.
I won’t demonstrate, because you can see my actual sample below! I quickly learned that I needed a different needle size for the color work portion, so the sample was doubly useful. Always check your gauge after blocking, now matter how frustrating the whole process is!
Everything went surprisingly smoothly with the body, but the sleeve caps were a little rough at first. I tried the first one at least 4 times. The instructions are good, I just made changes to the pattern that required some modifications. Pictured below is my final success!
As you can see a bit below in my blocking picture, I added darts in the front and back to pull in the waist just a little and give the sweater some shape. My hips are a bit larger than my bust, so there were more increases at the bottom than decreases at the top.
And here is the final sweater! The one thing I would change is to knit the button bands a little thicker. They do pull a bit when I button it up.
Thanks for reading! Feel free to leave any questions in the comments section!
Hello! It’s been far too long! For my niece’s birthday this year, I wanted to make her some adorable farm animal finger puppets, as her birthday party was at a petting zoo. I was able to make all the puppets from leftover yarn from other projects.
I was not originally planning to publish this pattern, because there are already so many patterns out there for animal finger puppets. But they’re cute, they’re easy, and I took notes to reuse the shapes for each animal, so it seemed natural to share the “pattern” with friends.
Instructions are provided below and as a PDF here.
If you use my patterns for your own creations or designs, please feel free to share some photos and link back to this pattern. If you have any questions about using my designs, please refer to the Patterns page.
Sizing
The finger puppets fit my medium-sized adult hands and my niece’s child-sized hands. You can adjust the sizing to fit larger fingers by using a larger hook or adding some stitches to the initial rounds.
Materials
Scraps of DK or light worsted yarn. I made 4 animals with about half a skein of Knit Picks Cotlin yarn. Samples were made with scrap yarn of various brands and weights.
3.5 mm (large) and 3 mm (small) crochet hooks
Yarn needle (for weaving in ends) and large pointed needle (for embroidering details)
Scraps of black and pink yarn or embroidery floss for embroidering eyes and noses
Gauge
There is no specific gauge for this pattern. You can use a larger hook if the finger puppets are too small for your fingers. You may have to remove stitches if you wish to make them smaller.
Instructions
Please note that the instructions below are written using American crochet terminology. This pattern is designed to use both your scraps and your creativity! I am not providing detailed instructions for what to embroider, but I will include detailed face images for each animal, and suggested instructions for snouts, beaks and ears are provided. I also included some ideas for the horse’s mane and the chicken’s crest. I encourage you to experiment with different animals and do what you think maximizes the cuteness!
Special Techniques
In general, the instructions are written “amigurumi style”, where you do not join at the end of each round, and start working in the first stitch of the previous round. I like to mark the first stitch of each round with a crochet stitch marker. Snouts are worked in the round, but you join and chain at the end of each round. Beaks are worked back and forth in rows.
Crochet across back of a chain: Please see below for a set of instructions and images I created for my soap saver pattern.
After working a certain number of stitches in the last chain of a round, turn the work upside down (first image). Then, work stitches across the back of the stitches already worked. The first stitch is worked in the stitch indicated by the blue arrow.
Basic Animal (DK or Light Worsted)
Head
Form magic circle
Round 1: Using large crochet hook, ch 1, 5 sc in magic circle, do not turn or join (5 st)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc of prior round (10 st)
Round 3: *sc, 2sc in next sc*, repeat around (15 st)
I recommend you weave in the starting tail at this point.
Round 4- 8: sc around, do not cut yarn (15 st)
Add any head decorations before moving on to the main body, as the puppet is too small to add them later. Make sure to weave in your ends as well before moving on.
Neck
Round 9: *sc2tog* around to last st, sc in last st (8 st)
Round 10: (2sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) twice, 2sc in next st, sc in final st (11 st)
Body
Rounds 11-17: sc around (11 st)
Finishing: Sl st into first st of previous round. Bind off and weave in tail.
Example of head and body with no decoration
Basic Animal (Thicker Yarn)
I only used this size animal for the sheep in the samples. If you are using scraps, this size can be used for thicker worsted or bulky yarns.
Head
Form magic circle
Round 1: Using large crochet hook, ch 1, 5 sc in magic circle, do not turn or join (5st)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc of prior round (10 st)
I recommend you weave in the starting tail at this point.
Round 5- 7: sc around, do not cut yarn
Add any head decorations before moving on to the main body, as the puppet is too small to add them later. Make sure to weave in your ends as well before moving on.
Neck
Round 8: (sc2tog, sc) around to last st, sc in last st (7 st)
Round 9: (2sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) twice, 2sc in next st, sc in final st (10 st)
Body
Rounds 10-14: sc around (10 st) Sl st into first st of previous round. Weave in tail.
Snouts
Work in contrast color to body if desired. See picture on cover for color inspiration.
For all snouts:
Ch 4 with large crochet hook
Round 1: Switch to smaller hook. Sc in second ch from hook, sc, sc3 in final ch
Working across back of original chain, sc in next ch, 2 sc in last ch, join to starting sc with a sl st
For dog, cat, and pig, end leaving a long tail for sewing to the head. Embroider nostrils/nose details before sewing to body.
For cow, horse, and sheep:
Round 2: Ch1, Sc around, join in first sc of the round with a sl st
For cow and sheep, end leaving a long tail to sew to head. Embroider nostrils/nose details before sewing to body.
For horse:
Embroider nostrils. Switch to main body color. Repeat round 2 until snout is desired length, about 4 more rounds. Bind off leaving a long tail to sew to head.
Beak
Beak is worked in a contrast color for the chick and the chicken
Row 1: Ch 3 using the smaller hook, leaving an extra long tail for sewing to the head.
Row 2: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in last chain, ch1, turn
Row 3: 2 sc together
Finish off by chaining one, cutting thread and pulling through the loop. Leave an extra long tail for sewing to the head.
Sew to head using both ends, the turning point from row 2 is the “point” of the beak.
Chicken:
Row 1: After sewing the beak to the head, use red yarn to put two sc stitches under the beak onto the head. There is no set way to do this. Just pick up any loops on the head to make the 2 stitches. Ch 1 and turn.
Row 2: sc in each of the sc you made under the beak. Cut the yarn and weave in the ends of the red yarn.
Ears
Cat
Hint: the cat and pig ears are similar to the beak!
Row 1: Ch 4 using the smaller, leaving an extra long tail for sewing to the head.
Row 2: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, ch1, turn
Row 3: Sc, sc2tog, ch1, turn
Row 4: sc2tog
Finish off by chaining one, cutting thread and pulling through the loop. Leave an extra long tail for sewing to the head.
Sew to head using both ends, the turning point from row 3 is the “point” of the ears
Pig (same as chicken beak)
Row 1: Ch 3 using the smaller hook, leaving an extra long tail for sewing to the head.
Row 2: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in last chain, ch1, turn
Row 3: 2 sc together
Finish off by chaining one, cutting thread and pulling through the loop. Leave an extra long tail for sewing to the head.
Sew to head using both ends, the turning point from row 2 is the “point” of the ears.
Horse, cow, sheep and dog
Form magic circle
Round 1: Using smaller crochet hook, ch 1, 5 sc in magic circle, do not turn or join (5st)
For horse, end off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head. Weave in the starting yarn. Then pinch the circle together with the ending tail before sewing to the head.
For cow, sheep and dog:
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc of prior round (10 st)
For cow and sheep, end off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head. Weave in the starting yarn. Then pinch the circle together with the ending tail before sewing to the head.
For dog, end off, leaving a long tail for sewing to the head. Weave in starting yarn. Do not pinch while sewing to the head. (Note that I made the dog ears slightly differently in the sample)
Other Details
The horse’s mane is made by picking up loops along the top of the head, and then attaching a contrast color in the same way you add fringe to a blanket. Great instructions are provided for fringe here: https://www.caabcrochet.com/how-to-add-fringe-crochet-project/
The chicken’s crest is made by crocheting into the stitches of the head in a line. I embroidered/attached all the other features first, then made line of stitches from front to back on the head. To give it height, crochet back and forth a few times, adding some hdc or dc stitches in the middle section.
The cow’s spots were embroidered on. I tried crocheting circles to attach, but they were too bulky. I recommend embroidering the spots as you go, as it is difficult to return to details on the head once the body has been constructed.
If you share finished items/WIPs on Instagram, be sure to tag @whatimadelastweekend or #whatimadelastweekend
I decided to write up this pattern thanks to a request on Instagram when I shared the green version. It’s a great first pattern to write, as it is quite simple (except one step, illustrated below) and it is just so useful.
The pattern works up quickly, is adaptable for smaller or larger soap bars (modifications explained below), though it worked well for both my husband’s favorite soap, and a new soap I decided to try. It makes a great eco-friendly gift. It can be made using a small amount of worsted-weight cotton scraps. It’s just all-around very practical.
I have provided instructions below and as a downloadable PDF here.
Sizing
Approximately 5 inches wide by 5 inches high by 1 inch deep, as written. For other sizes, please refer to instructions at end.
Materials
About 40 g/65 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn
Yarns used in samples: Knit Picks Dishie (Green) and Wool and the Gang Cotton (Mauve)
Size H/8/5mm crochet hook
Gauge
While exact gauge is not important for this project, the samples were crocheted such that 16 dc = 4 inches (10 cm) and 8 dc rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
Instructions
Please note that the instructions below are written using American crochet terminology.
Base chain: 11ch loosely or with one size larger hook
Round 1: 2sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch until last ch, 4sc in last ch
Illustrated Step at Right: Turn and work in back side of ch: sc in the back of next ch (top and middle images)
Sc in the back of each ch until final ch, 2sc in final ch
Sl st in first st to join in the round (24 sts)
End of Round 1 is pictured in the bottom image.
Detail for Round 1
From this point on, it may be useful to add a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round.
Round 2: 1ch (does not count as a st on this round) 2sc in each of the first 2 sts, 1sc in each of next 8 sts, 2sc in each of next 4 sts, 1 sc in each of next 8 sts, 2sc in each of the last 2 sts, sl st in first st of round (32 sts)
Round 3: 1ch (does not count as a st on this round), sc in each st around, sl st in first st of round (32 sts)
Round 4: 2ch (counts as one st), 1dc in first st, [skip 1 st, 2dc in next st] until you reach the last st, skip last st, sl st in top of beginning 2ch (32 sts)
Round 5: Sl st into center between beginning 2ch and first dc of previous round, 2ch (counts as one st), dc in same space as 2ch, [2dc between next two dc of previous round] around, sl st in top of beginning 2ch (32 sts)
Rounds 6-15: Repeat round 5, 10 more times, or until you can pinch the top of the sack closed with the soap inside.
Round 16: 2ch (counts as one st), dc in first dc and each dc around, sl st in top of beginning 2ch (32 sts)
Cut yarn and weave in ends.
Finishing: Create a long, tight chain (about 60ch or 12-13 inches) and weave through the dc of round 16 (illustrated at right). A yarn needle is useful, but not required. Tie the ends into a knot. After you put the soap inside the bag, tie another knot at the cinched top to keep the opening shut.
Weaving Chain Between dc in final round
For larger or smaller soap bars:
If you find the pattern is too wide/narrow for your bar of soap, you can modify the pattern easily to fit. For a narrower/wider soap saver, subtract/add stitches to the initial base chain, then adjust the blue colored stitch counts by 1, for each 1 stitch change in the initial base chain. For example, if you decide to use an initial 10ch instead of 11ch, the blue stitch counts in row 2 will be 7 stitches. The total stitches in each round will change by 2 stitches for each 1 stitch change in the base chain. For the example, with an initial 10ch, the total stiches in round 1 would be 22 (24 minus 2). If your bar of soap is longer than the standard pattern, you can add rows in the “Rounds 6-15” repeat section.
Other notes:
Please visit my newly-added PATTERNS page for information on copyright, making items for sale and pattern support.
If you share finished items/WIPs on Instagram, be sure to take @whatimadelastweekend
I started this blog in 2020 during the global pandemic. While making was not new to me, I felt a strong urge to share my projects with the world. I hoped my sharing would help others to discover crafts that would bring them the same comfort and satisfaction that I find from my own projects. I started strong with some initial blog posts on my making adventures, then burned out pretty spectacularly by mid-year. As the name of the blog suggests, I’m a casual weekend maker, and I think of myself as a true hobbyist. So I must ask myself, what is the source of the pressure and the burnout?
After months of reflection, I concluded that I was not being intentional with my making or my online presence. I was making items for the sake of making and filling some little void in my life. And despite furiously churning out projects, I hesitated to share very much of my story or progress with anyone else.
It has recently occurred to me that one reason for my hesitancy to post is my frequent visits to the Instagram fiber community, where I consistently encounter beautiful content, mostly aimed at selling patterns, yarn and courses. While I enjoy that community, and love the way it makes these crafts more accessible than ever, I slowly came into the feeling that nothing I do or make is enough. After all, there are so many other people sharing their fiber journeys, and doing so as their full or part-time job. Their photos are professional and polished. Their designs have been tested, perfected and vetted. Some have generated huge followings that hang on their every word. They are activists and successful business people. Is there really even room for one more person to share some amateur projects and personal musings?
So, I made a lot of items in 2020, and shared very little of it, because I felt like nothing I made was good enough. For 2021, I decided to set out more intentionally on my making journey for the coming year, fight back against the pressure that comes from feeling like an amateur in a world of professionals, and focus on the reasons I love to make (and share what I make) in the coming year.
Being mindful while I’m making and living in the moment.
Aligning my making with my personal values, including being thoughtful about the items I bring into my life (and the lives of others).
Never creating content for the sake of content. Always seeking to add value with my work.
Paying attention to the details. Never rushing. Starting over if necessary.
Letting go of projects that no longer serve a purpose or add value to my life.
Even this post was a struggle with this intention: I didn’t push myself to publish this on New Year’s Eve at midnight, but instead gave myself time to think about what was important and how I wanted to share my intentions.
As an extreme introvert, I tend to shut down during tough times. Unfortunately 2020 was full of tough times, so I kept to myself a lot. There is nothing wrong with hiding a bit when you’re overwhelmed, but I never really participated in the fiber community the way I want to. In 2021, I’d like to set my intentions to reach out in small ways to other makers. I want to leave more positive comments on projects I find beautiful or inspiring and offer my advice and feedback when asked. I also want to invest more in the small business side of the fiber community by buying from small businesses more often.
As I mentioned above, I burned out quite quickly in 2020. For 2021, I’ve scaled back my expectations. I already share my projects fairly often on Instagram, so I want to focus on creating a detailed blog post only when I think it is helpful. As part of this year’s blog, I have a few related intentions:
Inspire at least one person to make something, or take up a new craft, by sharing my work.
Given that a lot of what I make is either self-designed or includes major changes to another pattern, I’d also like to share my design process in detail at least once this year.
Post more about the aspects of making not directly related to projects. For example: mindfulness, design/inspiration/creativity, sustainability, community and motivation.
While I finished plenty of projects in 2020, I didn’t experiment as much as I would like until the end of the year. This year, while I don’t have any plans to become some kind of mad fiber scientist, I want to make more room for trying something new. At the end of 2020, I learned to spin using a drop spindle, which opened my eyes to the infinite possibilities of fiber. I can’t wait to try a few new things in 2021 as well.
This lovely bracelet was the first craft kit I’ve purchased since childhood. The kit is from the YoolaDesigns store on Etsy, and you can purchase an identical kit here. The kit came with everything I needed except wire cutters. The wire was thin enough for sharp scissors though, so I would not recommend buying wire cutters just for this project.
The process of making the long strands that you braid together is quite fun, and lies somewhere between knitting and crochet. If you have ever used a circle knitter as a kid (or adult), the idea is quite similar, but on a tiny scale. I did not find the bracelet difficult to make, but I have experience working with crochet thread and making tiny objects (I was really into Irish crochet for a while). I would only recommend the kit to someone who is comfortable working with materials at least as thin as sock yarn.
At the end of the project, I noticed that my work “swirled” so it didn’t flatten perfectly. I almost gave up, after doing all that work, but I wanted to see if I could live with the imperfection. Besides, I was out of wire, so it was not an option to just try again.
It turns out that the imperfection is no big deal. The bracelet can be both lovely and imperfect.
I have not worn it out yet, because I have not been going out at all, but I think it will make a nice addition to my wardrobe when we all finally leave the house.
This bracelet is pretty thick, so I ordered some additional gold wire and clasps from this store to make a more subtle, single-strand bracelet that will go with my work outfits. This time I bought a thinner wire, so hopefully the flattening process will be less frustrating.
The kit was engaging and the results were lovely. I will be keeping some supplies for wire bracelets on hand for making gifts. This is a great project for someone who wants to create a handmade, completely wearable piece, and has some experience working with thin yarn and small crochet hooks/knitting needles.
Until We Meet Again,
P.S. This post is not sponsored, I purchased this kit without any previous contact with the seller, and I receive no compensation for referrals.
At least I can do it with handmade dishcloths now!
Using handmade dishcloths is not just more visually appealing, I think it really invites a mindful approach to a dreaded chore. I hope that each time I use them, these dishcloths remind me to be grateful for the meals that filled my belly and created the dirty dishes. I hope they remind me to be grateful for running water, to be grateful for a clean, healthy apartment, and to be grateful for dishwashers.
These dishcloths are intended to serve as an eco-friendly alternative to disposable sponges. To be clear, as “dishcloth” can have several meanings, I mean small squares with some texture to use while washing dishes. The free pattern, by Ivory Farmhouse, can be found here.
Because Heather’s instructions are fantastic and I followed to the letter, I do not need to provide any detail on alterations.
I started with the yarn, aptly named “Dishie” by KnitPicks. If I was choosing from scratch I might select something more overtly eco-friendly for such a project, but no purchase can be kinder to the Earth than using the things we already possess.
I found the pattern on Pinterest after I settled on making dishcloths. I chose it first and foremost due to the texture, as dishcloths need to have a certain “scrubby” quality. I also liked the simple, but interesting, design. When making for my home, I try to keep my husband’s preferences in mind, and luckily we agree on a simple style.
Finally, I wanted something I could work on while listening to audio books. I like to save my intense focus for projects that will not be covered in food and gunk after the first use. The repetitive but interesting pattern was perfect for my mood.
While these cloths have the aforementioned “scrubby” texture, they are not too textured to serve as a nice set of coasters, if you omit the little loop at the top! See picture evidence below:
*sigh* yet another dish I’ll have to wash
While I would never wish the chore of dishwashing on another human, I hope that if you, like me, find yourself washing dishes on occasion, you will also find these dishcloths make your experience more pleasant.
Hi, I’m Jess and this is my blog dedicated to all things handmade. I hope the title is self-explanatory: I’m here to share my part-time adventures in creating. I work a full-time job, and make in my precious, limited, free time.
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I’ve been making – whether that’s crocheting, knitting, sewing – since I was very young. I used to crochet outfits for my stuffed animals in elementary school. In high school my best friend and I would sew crazy outfits and Halloween costumes and knit hats for our friends. In college, I made some of my own clothes when I couldn’t find items I wanted at reasonable prices.
Recently, I have come back to creating and I am working to cultivate a “creative practice” in my life. At first, I thought I needed to create for stress relief. But I’ve learned that the pride of creating something with your own two hands touches something deeper in us than just reducing our stress levels. A creative practice, whatever that looks like for you, has the potential to add joy to your life. I’m here for those who want to experience, or recapture, the joy of creating. I hope to provide ideas and inspiration to my readers and I’m happy to share with you my quest for the perfect handmade version of everything.
I have to be honest though, I’m not just excited, I’m also nervous. Writing about what I love to make seems like my most natural fit in the making community, but I worry my writing/posting time will start to eclipse my actual making time. For that reason, I won’t promise to post with a certain frequency. I think there are a few things I can commit to though, so I’ll lay those out here at the outset.
My commitments:
First, I promise to only bring you content that has the potential to add value to your life. I don’t want to be a content creator, I want to be avaluecreator! I am here to share my own creative pursuits, and the way they add value in my life, and hopefully help you discover ideas and inspiration for your own creative endeavors.
Second, I’ve paid good money to keep my site free of intrusive advertising and other internet chaos. If you notice anything like that on my site, please let me know using the contact form and I will do what it takes to remove it. I am committed to keeping this a relaxing space.
What I Made Last Weekend 